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@@ -6,6 +6,66 @@ There is no need to stick to OpenForge for all your tiles. The bases we produce
All of our set suggestions below are based on the preference for Magnets + OpenLOCK. You can always swap in what base you prefer. Some people prefer to use our plain bases that have no texture on them so that all the tiles line up perfectly. Some people prefer the bases to carry the texture of the tile all the way through. The bases have a broad variety including magnet, openlock, magnetic + openlock, openlock triplex, plain, and any other base you want to imagine.
## Materials and Tools
### Materials
#### Filament
I use and am super happy with [Foxsmart Natural PLA](http://thefoxsmart.com/shop/pla-filament-2/). Their filament has good quality control, and it's *cheap* at $16/roll and flat rate shipping of (IIRC) $5 regardless of order size. I generally use clear, because I find it easier to tell if I got good coverage with my primer, because I can hold it up to a light and see if there are gaps in the coverage. Black and White both also work, though with black, you will need to be careful that your primer fully coverd it, because the filament is glossy. Turns out, glossy shadows don't look good.
#### Primer
I use [Krylon Fusion](http://www.krylon.com/products/camouflage-paint-made-with-fusion-for-plastic-technology/) Black Camo paint. This stuff is amazing, SUPER flat, goes on in thin, even coats. Hell, I use it to prime my miniatures these days. I find it at my local Ace Hardware for about $5 a can. Tabletop Minions has a [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5Re9jTuWPk) covering all the reasons I love this paint.
If you can't find the krylon fusion paints, before I used it, I was reasonably happy with [Rustoleum Painter's Touch](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BWOS94/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_3_w) Flat Black, which you can get at places like Lowes or Home Depot. (Despite what amazon says, it's about $4 a can)
#### Glue
For superglue, I have two different recommendations. [Loktite Ultragel Control](https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-4-Gram-1363589/dp/B003Y49R7G/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1505841780&sr=1-1&keywords=loctite) is super easy to use, but a bit pricy. Also you end up needing to use pliars to crank the top as the glue gets used up to actually use all that you are sold. I love this stuff when I need more control for like tight spots and such.
Price wise, [Gorilla Super Glue Gel](https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Super-Glue-Gel-15/dp/B00CJ5EO2E/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q3JRJK77Z1M55J3RCK12) is much cheaper per ounce, and I use it for the bulk of my gluing these days. ($4.84 for 15 grams vs $3.89 for 4 grams)
#### Magnets
There are two types of magnets regularly used in OpenForge. 5mm spherical magnets, and 3/16" dia. x 1/16" thick cylinders.
I get the 3/16" dia. x 1/16" thick magnets from [K&J](https://www.kjmagnetics.com/search-pn.asp?pg=1&stext=D31) and my spheres from [Dealxtreme](http://www.dx.com/p/5mm-neodymium-magnet-cube-diy-puzzle-set-black-216-pcs-170237#.WcFZSNOGN24). With Dealxtreme, the shipping time is long, and which color of magnet is cheapest changes a lot, so keep an eye on the site, and order early before you run out.
#### Paint
For the most part, I use [Americana Craft Paint](https://decoart.com/americana/) for my terrain. Here's their [color chart](file:///Users/devonjones/Downloads/Americana_Acrylics_Color_Chart.pdf). There isn't anything super special about my choice here, you can find usable paints with any of the craft lines. Use the color chart I linked to look at other paint lines to get paints that are close.
* Black, White
* Zinc, Neutral Grey and Slate Grey for stone.
* Raw Umber, Raw Sienna and Honey Brown for wood.
* Hauser Light Green, Hauser Medium Green and Hauser Dark Green for moss/lichen.
* Ultrablue Deep, True Blue and Ocean Blue for water.
* [Gloss varnish](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=dadec942654c465e76e6b93b851bce6a&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DS128-9&Category_Code=PREP) for things like water, metal, etc.
* Various metallics from a variety of craft paint lines for metals.
#### Water
When I want to do water in something like a fountain, I use Woodland Scenics [Water Effects](https://www.amazon.com/Woodland-Scenics-C1212-Water-Effects/dp/B000B6OSWE).
### Tools
#### 3d Printer (of course)
If you can afford a little more in cost, I suggest the [Prusa i3 MK2](http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-mk2-kit.html) at $699.99. It gets great reviews, isn't super expensive, and makes really top quality prints.
If you want something cheaper, a lot of people seem to be really happy with the [Monoprice Maker Select](https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13860) at $299.99.
#### Hobby knife
You'll want an xacto knife. I prefer one with [rubber sides](https://www.amazon.com/ELMERS-X3000-Rubber-Barrel-Blades-X3732Q/dp/B00BMQGJE2/ref=sr_1_8?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1505843735&sr=1-8&keywords=xacto). You'll also want a [self healing mat](https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Cutting-Green-Black/dp/B00251I5P4/ref=pd_sim_201_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SV3YYQPM91B869B14T75&dpID=51nFzgaVOnL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail) and [plenty of blades](https://www.amazon.com/X-ACTO-X-Life-Classic-Blades-X611/dp/B00006ICJV/ref=sr_1_6?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1505843735&sr=1-6&keywords=xacto) (a sharp knife is counterintuitively safer then a dull one). Don't be stupid with these, cut away from yourself. I know, I've had 3 bad cuts in the past few years, one of which that did permanent nerve damage to my left pointer finger. Be careful!
#### Pin Vice
I use the pin vice all the time. Basically it's a mini drill that you turn with your hands that has very tiny bits. For anything that I print that uses filament as a joint or a rivet, having a drill that's a little larger then a 1.75mm piece of filament is super useful, but I find a ton of other uses for it in both 3d printing, and for miniatures. This isn't critical equipment, but it's really pretty useful to have.
Here's a [reasonably cheap one](https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Fun-Precision-Model-Rotary/dp/B01DBN8PLI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505841385&sr=8-1&keywords=pin+vise) and one that has a [ton of bits](https://www.amazon.com/CML-Supply-Micro-Drill-Chuck/dp/B001RJE3X8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1505841385&sr=8-6&keywords=pin+vise). A variety of bits is really worth it. In fact, I really did actually order the second one from amazon while writing this. Seriously.
#### Flush Cutters
Here's a cheap set from [amazon](https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ). Cheap snips generally are softer, so their blade is more easily destroyed. So long as you **only** use this on plastic, you can go as cheap as you want.
#### Lighter
I use a standard bic lighter. Best way to get rid of stringing if you have any. Also super useful for making rivets out of filament.
#### Spray Paint Booth
Because I'm making a ton of tiles, I built a simple spray paint booth. What I did was go get some flat cardboard (from say an amazon box), and a plastic crate (like [this one](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Style-Selections-Bella-30-Gallon-Clear-Tote-with-Standard-Snap-Lid/50149128)). Got rid of the lid, added the cardboard on the bottom, and bam, instant spray booth.
#### Drill Press
Printing isn't always clean. In many cases, magnet holes will end up with stringing, gunk or other bits of plastic in them. I use a benchtop drill press with a 15/64" or 6mm drill bit. This is not strictly necessary, it's totally aa nice to have. You don't need anything nice, you can just the cheap-o model from [Harbor Freight](https://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-5-speed-bench-drill-press-60238.html). I find a ton of use for my drill press, unrelated to OpenForge. If you have the space, I recommend one.
## Basic Set
To create a basic set, you will want a selection that lets you build a few small rooms, or a larger, more complex room. To that end, we suggest you start off with the following: