openforge-tutorials/guides/morehead_mausoleum

Morehead Mausoleum Paint and Assembly Guide

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Supplies

3d printed parts

• Dome
• Entrance 1 (4x) (print with the top face down for best results
• Entrance 2 (4x)
• Entrance 3 (8x)
• Mausoleum Wall (4x)
• 4 doors or windows, any mix you prefer

Paint

• Brown Krylon Fusion Primer Ultra Flat Camoflage
• Americana (or other Craft) Paints
  • Burnt Sienna
  • Raw Sienna
  • Honey Brown
  • Desert Sand
  • Fawn
• Vallejo Game Washes (or Citadel)
  • Sepia Wash (Vallejo Game Color Wash Set) or Citadel Seraphim Sepia
  • Umber Wash (Vallejo Game Color Wash Set) or Citadel Agrax Earthshade
  • Black Wash (Vallejo Game Color Wash Set) or Citadel Nuln Oil
• Reaper Paints
  • Adamantine Black 09124 (Reaper Master Series)
  • Old Pewter 09196 (Reaper Master Series)
  • Old Bronze 09197 (Reaper Master Series)
  • Spruce Green 29846 (Reaper Master Series HD)
  • Sapphire Blue 09016 (Reaper Master Series)
• Liquitex Matte Medium
• Water

Other Supplies

• 1.75 mm filament, 8 short lengths about 3/4"
• Cyanoacrylate glue (super glue) such as Gorilla Super Glue Gel
• Pin Vice (Optional)

Here's a reasonably cheap one and one that has a . A variety of bits is really worth it. In fact, I really did actually order the second one from amazon while writing this. Seriously.

Painting

• Prime the pieces with dark brown primer. I love the Krylon Fusion paints, they are super flat and bind to plastic really well.

• Hit the stone areas with medium coverage of Burnt Sienna. You want to make sure the deep areas still show through with the dark brown.

• Now do a lighter coverage of Raw Sienna. Not quite a drybrush, but make sure the paintbrush is not particularly full of paint.

• Now drybrush with Honey brown. This is intended to be a highlight, so you want to focus on it ending up on the upturned edges of the piece. I do this by only moving the brush down against the part.

• (Optional) Now use fawn to pick out about 5 blocks per piece. Drybrush the fawn on and onto the same brick on the reverse side. Pick different bricks for each of the 4 parts.

• (Optional) Now use a sepia wash and pick out 5 more bricks. Cover the whole brick with the wash on front and back. This is called glazing. We are using the wash to tint the entire brick.

• (Optional) Finally glaze 5 more random bricks with a brown wash. Brown and sepia are similar, but the hue is still different, and the bricks will give some variation.

• (Optional) Highlight the stone embelishments (the arches, pillars and base of the niche) with a mix of Desert Sand and Honey Brown

• Use a black wash inside the grate at the bottom

• Use a very dark metallic on the grate itself. I used Adamantium Black.

• Highlight the grate with a lighter metallic. I chose to also go for a more dull color in Aged Pewter to show the age.

• Paint the tracery on the top, the rods and the small symbol above the niche with a bronze paint. Here I use Old Bronze.

• Mix a green and a blue to create a turquoise. Then add a wash medium and some water. I use equal parts Liquitex Matte Medium and water to make the wash. If you don't have that, you can use water and a little rubbing alcohol to make the wash. The alcohol will make it so the wash also sticks to surfaces instead of just going for the crevices.

• I took my green which was already close to a turquoise and dry brushed the raised surfaces to get more verdegris on the metal.

• Paint the door and door arch (glue 2 back to back) with the krylon flat dark brown

• Hit the wood on the door with Burnt Umber

• Do a lighter layer with Milk Chocolate. I'm keeping the browns a different hue from the stone to make it clear that this is wood.

• Dry brush with Honey Brown

• I used the Aged Pewter on all the metal parts and on the two sides.

• Then lined around the metal parts with a black wash.

• Paint the arch and the top of the door like the rest of the stonework.

Construction

• Glue some short lengths of filament into two of the walls. A pin vice can be useful in this step if the holes are not well cleared.

• Glue two sides together, making sure that the filament sides are oriented so you can glue the two halves together. The filament acts as a strengthener to keep the bond between sides strong.

• Glue the two halves together and clamp.

• If using the floors, glue them into two halves and wait to dry.

• Then glue the two sides together.

• Flip over and glue the pillars in the corners. The pillars are painted the same way as the rest.

• Glue the painted roof and arches to the building, but not the pillars. There's an outline on the building of where these two pieces should be glued. I found it works out better if you glue the arches first and then the roof.

• Slide the decorative arch in, then the door. Don't glue, this is made to be able to hold windows (like 3 sides of the real mausoleum) or a wall. Both of which I plan on releasing later.

• Final Product

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