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split paint guide into multiple files
This commit is contained in:
Devon Jones
@@ -2,7 +2,7 @@
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* [Guides](guides/README.md)
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* [Tools, Supplies and Introduction](sets/README.md)
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* [Paints for Miniatures](sets/paints.md)
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* [Paints for Miniatures](hobby/paints.md)
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## Sets
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122
hobby/metallic_paints.md
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Table of Contents
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=================
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* [Metallic Paints for Miniature Painting](#metallic-paints-for-miniature-painting)
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* [Cutting to the chase](#cutting-to-the-chase)
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* [References](#references)
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* [Vallejo Metal Color](#vallejo-metal-color)
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* [Badger Metalsmith](#badger-metalsmith)
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* [Vallejo Liquid Gold](#vallejo-liquid-gold)
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* [Other Metal Paints](#other-metal-paints)
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* Other Articles
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* [Paints](paints.md)
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* [Metallic Paints](metallic_paints.md)
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* [Washes/Inks](washes.md)
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* [Tools](tools.md)
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* [Techniques](techniques.md)
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# Metallic Paints for Miniature Painting
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## Cutting to the chase
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Want to skip the rest of the document? Here's my recommendation. Buy 6 colors of Vallejo Metal Color.
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* Gold
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* Copper
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* Pale Burnt Metal (which can be used as a highlight for either Gold or Copper)
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* Silver (Highlight)
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* Steel (Midtone)
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* Magnesium (Shadow)
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This will cost you around $50, which is a little steep, but these droppers are huge, so you probably won't ever need to buy them again. You can split that up into two purchases of $25, one for silver metals, one for yellow/red metals. If you really need to go cheap, buy Steel and Silver, and use glazes to make any other colors (sepia over silver makes a pretty decent gold. I do not suggest using any other line of paints.
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With this basic set, you can make a wide variety of golds. The gold is a greenish gold, and you can bring that back to the red spectrum with copper. You can also make bronze by mixing even more copper into the gold. For any of these yellow or redish metals, the Pale Burnt Metal makes a good highlight. I would suggest using a wash or ink to take your color to a shadow.
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With white metals, you can use Magnesium as your shadow, steel as your midtone and silver as your highlight.
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Beyond that, make sure you have [inks](inks.md), or Badger Metalsmith Ores/Ghost Tints if you want to do colored metals. Paint the figure first using silver metals, and then glaze over that with the ink or tint in the color you want the metal.
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## References
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* [Miniac: What to Thin Metallics With?](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OGFJst94Lw)
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* [Miniac: What's the Best Undercoat for Metal?](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Iaca4TlvuC8)
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## Vallejo Metal Color
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* Pigment Density: High
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* Container: 32ml Dropper
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* Cost per ml: $0.26/ml ($8.40 dropper bottle)
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* Personal level of experience: High
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* Finish: Metallic
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Unfortunatly, nearly all acrylic metal paints are fairly bad. The pigments can't be ground as fine, so they tend to be really gloppy and are hard to get good results with. There is one exception to this: Vallejo Metal Color (VMC) (not to be confused with metal paints in the game or model color lines, and not to be confused with vallejo metallics). These metal paints are a joy to work with. They start of already very thin, and have fantastic coverage. I don't know what black magic Vallejo is doing with this, but they are incredible. I basically don't use any of my other metallic paints anymore. Don't bother with anything else.
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The only real downside in them is that they only have two non 'silver' based colors, gold and copper. that being said, you can make a great bronze by mixing those two.
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For a starter of vallejo metal color, I would recommend:
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* [Gold](https://amzn.to/2XGUzc3)
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* [Copper](https://amzn.to/2WBAe6y)
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* [Pale Burnt Metal](https://amzn.to/2MKHkGj) (which can be used as a highlight for either Gold or Copper)
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* [Silver](https://amzn.to/2IDyYeg) (Highlight)
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* [Dark Aluminium](https://amzn.to/2MIx80N) (Shadow)
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* [Steel](https://amzn.to/2IBPLOS) (Shadow)
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Those 6 are probably all the metal colors you'll ever need. They are more expensive per pot than most paints at $8.40, but are also much larger at 32ml (so $0.26/ml).
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References:
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* [Vince Venturella: Product Review 01 - Vallejo Acrylic Metal Color](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XxODxALYV8o)
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* [Vince Venturella: Product Review 06 - Vallejo Metal Color Copper & Gold](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hauVrnhIah0)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 104 - Zenithal Speed Painting w True Metals](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByX2jIEmXJM)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 129 - How to Paint Colored Metallics](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9q35BPaBN0)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 130 - How to Paint Antique Green Gold](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8RcdJTyDIE4)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 160 - How to Paint True Metallic Bronze](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsueC_ee5-k)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 179 - Shading True Metallic Metals Revisited](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-gyIO3Ncpk)
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## Badger Metalsmith
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* Pigment Density: High
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* Container: 30ml Dropper
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* Cost per ml: $0.08/ml ($2.50 dropper bottle)
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* Personal level of experience: None
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* Finish: Metallic with a bright shine
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* Purchase: [Full Metalsmith Set](https://usaairbrushsupply.com/products/1319-bmsk-basic-metalsmith-kit-1oz-30ml) (2 paints, 3 aging bases and 5 "ores" for $26.40) or you can buy the ores individaully
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This is a real interesting paint system. They have a single base paint, it's silver. Ther are three aging bases that darken the metal and 5 ores that are tints you can add to make the metal into gold, copper, bronze or colored metals. The ideas is that you can create paint formulas for a specific mmetal you want to achieve.
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The metal paint itself is decent, but not in the same league as Vallejo Metal Color. However, the ores oars of great use. They offer Gold Ore, Bronze Ore, Copper Ore, Carbon Iron Ore, Blue Ore and Red Ore, and these can either be be mixed into Vallejo Metal Ccolor to tint it, or glazed on top of it.
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The same can be said for nearly any line of inks, along with the [Badger Minitare Ghost Tints](https://amzn.to/2W6Pp7u). Using either mixed in tints like this, or glazing over the top of VMC, you can achieve any of the colored metallics. Be sure to first learn how to do this over the silvery VMC colors before you try at all over gold or copper.
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Given how cheap the ores are (8 cents per ml, wow!), these are an easy buy to justify.
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References:
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* [Vince Venturella: Product Review 29 Badger Metalsmith Paint System](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aLKfTxHuRgk)
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## Vallejo Liquid Gold
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* Pigment Density: Very High
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* Container: 35ml Pot
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* Cost per ml: $0.23/ml ($7.99 dropper bottle)
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* Personal level of experience: None
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* Finish: Metallic with a bright shine
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* Purchase: [Vallejo Liquid Metallics Set](https://amzn.to/2KzL7nd) (4 paints fir $17.20)
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I have not used these, but these are alchohol paints. They require that you use Isopropyl Alcohol to thin them, and they dry out super fast. They will trash brushes, so don't use good brushes with them (frankly don't use good sable brushes with any metallics). The pigment and the binder will seperate, so you have to shake them with every use, and if you don't store them properly, the pigment and binder will seperate in a way you can't fix. All that being said, the results from these paints is supposed to be astonishing. They produce a shine akin to real metal that you just can't get from scrylic paints.
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References:
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* [Vince Venturella: Produce Review 04 - Vallejo Liquid Gold](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K-ePHYeIKlI)
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## Other Metal Paints
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* Every paint line under paints
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* Darkstar molden metals
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<!-- TODO: Add recipes for things like bronze, verdigris, etc -->
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114
hobby/techniques.md
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Table of Contents
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=================
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* [Prep Equipment](#prep-equipment)
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* [Techniques](#techniques)
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* [Medium/Additives](#mediumadditives)
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* [Layering](#layering)
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* [Shading](#shading)
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* [Wet Blending](#wet-blending)
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* [Two Brush Blending](#two-brush-blending)
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* [Loaded Brush](#loaded-brush)
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* [Drybrushing](#drybrushing)
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* [Overbrushing](#overbrushing)
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* [Feathering](#feathering)
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* [Edge Highlighting](#edge-highlighting)
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* [Glazing](#glazing)
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* [Zenithal Priming & Glazing](#zenithal-priming--glazing)
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* Other Articles
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* [Paints](paints.md)
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* [Metallic Paints](metallic_paints.md)
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* [Washes/Inks](washes.md)
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* [Tools](tools.md)
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* [Techniques](techniques.md)
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# Prep Equipment
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* [Miniac: Most Commonly Used Miniature Painting Prep Tools](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-AWEDrWZjLE)
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# Techniques
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## Medium/Additives
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* [Luke's APS: How To Make Lahmian medium Cheap](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ad7bNDfS3fI)
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## Layering
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* [Dr Faust's Painting Clinic: Painting Heroforge 2: Layering & Highlighting](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UNfjkVVtdIg)
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* [Miniac: Episode 06: Layering](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dAcaBh_o6zI)
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* [Miniac: Get the CREAMIEST Blends](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAlDMGiHbX0)
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* [Miniwargaming Jay: Miniature Painting 101 - Part 11 - Highlights](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrnQMWDA_yA)
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* [Miniwargaming Jay: Miniature Painting 101: Part 135 - Basics of Layering](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rvHEI5Z8I0)
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## Shading
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* [Dr Faust's Painting Clinic: The Basics: Inks & Washes for Miniatures](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuTCEzyZ50o)
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* [Miniac: Episode 05: Shading](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdbWckTKDmk)
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* [Miniwargaming Jay: Miniature Painting 101 - Part 10 - Washes and Shades](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ke2UMbMPN9w)
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* [Miniwargaming Jay: Miniature Painting 101: Part 17 - Shading](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7lBNjOVjLU)
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## Wet Blending
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* [Miniac: How to Wet Blend](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERX3ghWvMDw)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 127 - How to Wet Blend](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tDppIYBhdv0)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 134 - How to Wet Blend Extreme Transitions](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gISsKIDYKGY)
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## Two Brush Blending
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* [Miniwargaming Jay: Miniature Painting 101: Part 47 - 2 Brush Blending](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3xqTudA3C8)
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## Loaded Brush
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 12 - Layering and Loaded Brush](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_04ZmOuucI)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 124 - Loaded Brush Blending](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTmhmthvUOg)
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## Drybrushing
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* [Dr Faust's Painting Clinic: Drybrushing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tj9XNbwfwHo)
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* [Dr Faust's Painting Clinic: Painting Heroforge 1: Drybrushing & Ink Washes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eHhVqyYsz90)
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* [Miniac: Episode 08: Drybrushing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yqobfZiCJ2E)
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* [Miniwargaming Jay: Miniature Painting 101 - Part 14 - Drybrushing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QaEKiuCr7kg)
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* [Tabletop Minions: Are Cheap Makeup Brushes Drybrushing Magic?](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSKFtaY8iAw)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 139 Ultimate Guide to Drybrushing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHRMnJce4b8)
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## Overbrushing
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* [Miniwargaming Jay: Miniature Painting 101 - Part 15: Overbrushing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUnRvZGOars)
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## Feathering
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* [Miniwargaming Jay: Miniature Painting 101 - Part 16: Feathering](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inYHg3PSnnU)
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## Edge Highlighting
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* [Miniac: Episode 07: Edge Highlighting](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uLi2QLaRlg)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 25 - Edge Highlighting](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQhV_-pTtkM)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 125 - Edge Highlighting](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=odBf2j5p-pQ)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 184 - How to Paint Difficult Edge Highlights](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pi8Pk2xGNOc)
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## Glazing
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* [Miniac: How to Glaze](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ePwy9qED28)
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* [Miniwargmaing Jay: Miniature Painting 101 - Part 12 - Glazes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzaxN4J69s0)
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* [Miniwargaming Jay: Miniature Painting 101: Part 134 - Glazing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfJlGopB2Sg)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 02 - Undershading & Glazes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZFXSE9UHUM)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 10 - Technique Tips - Washes, Glazes & Drybrush](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaARYpmCyC4)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 31 - Blending - Glazes, Two Brush, Feathering & Loaded Brush](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70A3_bHGMGc)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 122 - How to Glaze](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N88NtHNmz1Q)
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## Zenithal Priming & Glazing
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* [Ghool's Painting Tips: Speed Painting - Zenithal Prime and Glazing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvJjD6Hm1Es)
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* [Miniac: Speedpaint Minis Without Losing Quality!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGOmSKO_KaU)
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* [Sorastro's Blood Rage Painting Guide Ep.1: The Frost Giant](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtHbIfyQHBU)
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* [Tabletop Minons: Understanding Underpainting](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wxc9WX2INp4)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 07 - Zenithal Highlighting & Ghosts](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nDvWs4dsfc)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 11 - Zenithal Highlighting Next Steps](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCafLRStALA)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 74 - Speed Painting with Washes, Shades & Inks](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YdY7GlwKQc)
|
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 75 - Zenithal Highlighting and Glazes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-dQU-dSNa8)
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* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 104 - Zenithal Speed Painting w True Metals](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByX2jIEmXJM)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 105 - Zenithal Speed Painting Gold True Metals](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agRmMwuQI5A)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 123 - Warm Zenithal Highlighting](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFDHpVJiNC0)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 136 - Guide to Value Sketching](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0CFC2soR18)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 175 - Understanding Unusual Undershading & Zenithal Highlighting](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Doc2GdL2Lv4)
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||||
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Table of Contents
|
||||
=================
|
||||
|
||||
* [Introduction](#introduction)
|
||||
* [Clip Systems](#clip-systems)
|
||||
* [Glossary](#glossary)
|
||||
* [Licenses](#licenses)
|
||||
* [Materials and Tools](#materials-and-tools)
|
||||
* [Materials](#materials)
|
||||
* [Filament](#filament)
|
||||
* [Primer](#primer)
|
||||
* [Glue](#glue)
|
||||
* [Magnets](#magnets)
|
||||
* [Paint](#paint)
|
||||
* [Paint Brushes](#paint-brushes)
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||||
* [Water](#water)
|
||||
* [Tools](#tools)
|
||||
* [3d Printer (of course)](#3d-printer-of-course)
|
||||
* [Hobby knife](#hobby-knife)
|
||||
* [Pin Vice](#pin-vice)
|
||||
* [Flush Cutters](#flush-cutters)
|
||||
* [Jewelry Mallet](#jewelry-mallet)
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||||
* [Lighter](#lighter)
|
||||
* [Spray Paint Booth](#spray-paint-booth)
|
||||
* [Drill Press](#drill-press)
|
||||
* Other Articles
|
||||
* [Paints](paints.md)
|
||||
* [Metallic Paints](metallic_paints.md)
|
||||
* [Washes/Inks](washes.md)
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||||
* [Tools](tools.md)
|
||||
* [Techniques](techniques.md)
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||||
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||||
# Introduction
|
||||
I think in general it's a good idea to have one set that you have a ton of tiles for, with lots of flexibility, and then a bunch of smaller sets where you can build a few rooms with some differing flair. It seems counterintuitive, but cut-stone is designed to actually be a little boring, which makes it a perfect set for the large set. It's easy to add flair to the dungeon with a few interesting tiles, or scatter terrain, but your basic set will serve you better if it is more of a plain pallet you can use to build a bunch of different things. The more distinctive it is, the harder it is to use for different game situations. Once you have selected the base set you intend to use, then you can extend it with various tiles, and other, smaller sets to add visual interest, or to make particular areas of your map vary for game reasons.
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||||
|
||||
There is no need to stick to OpenForge for all your tiles. The bases we produce can work with basically any other project's tiles. You just need to cut off 6mm from the base of any other tile system, something that most slicers can do, but can also easily be done in blender with a cube and a boolean difference. Select a connection system, and go with that universally. I love doing openlock + magnetic. Magnets make life way easier when you are quickly building a map at the table. Openlock makes it much easier to build rooms ahead of time that you don't have to worry about getting knocked apart. The combination is great. You'll also want to choose a square size, which is a bit more complicated. OpenForge internal tiles and dwarven forge are based on 25mm squares. Printable Scenery, Dragonlock and Hirstarts are based on 1" squares. To make the 25mm tiles the 1" scale, scale them up to 101.6%. To do the reverse, scale 1" tiles down to 98.4%. however, the OpenForge bases are already the right size. DO NOT SCALE THEM, as it will break the openlock connectors. We have not started altering the file names, but in the future, the file names will contain the square basis so that it's super easy from the outset to understand what scale things are in.
|
||||
|
||||
All of our set suggestions below are based on the preference for Magnets + OpenLOCK. You can always swap in what base you prefer. Some people prefer to use our plain bases that have no texture on them so that all the tiles line up perfectly. Some people prefer the bases to carry the texture of the tile all the way through. The bases have a broad variety including magnet, openlock, magnetic + openlock, openlock triplex, infinitylock, infinitylock + magnetic, dragonbite and dragonbite + magnetic.
|
||||
|
||||
# Clip Systems
|
||||
## Glossary
|
||||
* Edges: The midpoint of the side of a square on a tile that is along the border of a tile.
|
||||
* Vertices: The border between squares on a tile that is along the border of a tile.
|
||||
|
||||
* magnetic - has holes for 5mm magnets on edges
|
||||
* openlock - has openlock clip holes at vertices
|
||||
* magnetic.openlock - has openlock clip holes at vertices and holes for 5mm magnets on edges
|
||||
* triplex - has openlock clip holes at edges and vertices
|
||||
* infinitylock - has infinitylock clip holes at edges and vertices
|
||||
* magnetic.infinitylock - has infinitylock clip holes at vertices and holes for 5mm magnets at edges
|
||||
* dragonlock - has dragonbite clip holes at vertices
|
||||
* magnetic.dragonlock - has dragonbite clip holes at vertices and holes for 5mm magnets at edges
|
||||
|
||||
Note: dragonlock currently mostly supports tiles that are divisible by 2. eg. 2x2, 2x4, not 2x3 or 3x3.
|
||||
|
||||
Disclosure: I am using Amazon affiliate links here, but I won't link to anything I don't use, and I won't link to a product in Amazon that is inferior to one I know of elsewhere.
|
||||
|
||||
# Licenses
|
||||
There is a seperate page for explaining how our [licenses](../licenses.md) work.
|
||||
|
||||
# Materials and Tools
|
||||
## Materials
|
||||
### Filament
|
||||
I use and am super happy with [Foxsmart Natural PLA](http://thefoxsmart.com/shop/pla-filament-2/). Their filament has good quality control, and it's *cheap* at $16/roll and flat rate shipping of (IIRC) $5 regardless of order size. I generally use clear, because I find it easier to tell if I got good coverage with my primer, because I can hold it up to a light and see if there are gaps in the coverage. Black and White both also work, though with black, you will need to be careful that your primer fully coverd it, because the filament is glossy. Turns out, glossy shadows don't look good.
|
||||
|
||||
### Primer
|
||||
I use [Krylon Fusion](http://amzn.to/2C8XG0L) Black Camo paint. This stuff is amazing, SUPER flat, goes on in thin, even coats. Hell, I use it to prime my miniatures these days. I find it at my local Ace Hardware for about $5 a can. Tabletop Minions has a [video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5Re9jTuWPk) covering all the reasons I love this paint. For wooden pieces I'll use the [Brown Camo Krylon Fusion](http://amzn.to/2Et5nEm)
|
||||
|
||||
If you can't find the krylon fusion paints, before I used them, I was reasonably happy with [Rustoleum Painter's Touch](http://amzn.to/2shNsvn) Flat Black, which you can get at places like Lowes or Home Depot. (Despite what amazon says, it's about $4 a can)
|
||||
|
||||
### Glue
|
||||
For superglue, I have two different recommendations. [Loktite Ultragel Control](http://amzn.to/2H42DvE) is super easy to use, but a bit pricy. Also you end up needing to use pliars to crank the top as the glue gets used up to actually use all that you are sold. I love this stuff when I need more control for like tight spots and such.
|
||||
|
||||
Price wise, [Gorilla Super Glue Gel](http://amzn.to/2H58rEX) is much cheaper per ounce, and I use it for the bulk of my gluing these days. ($4.84 for 15 grams vs $3.89 for 4 grams)
|
||||
|
||||
### Magnets
|
||||
There are two types of magnets regularly used in OpenForge. 5mm spherical magnets, and 3/16" dia. x 1/16" thick cylinders.
|
||||
|
||||
I get the 3/16" dia. x 1/16" thick magnets from [K&J](https://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D31) and my spheres from [Dealxtreme](http://www.dx.com/p/5mm-neodymium-magnet-cube-diy-puzzle-set-black-216-pcs-170237#.WcFZSNOGN24). With Dealxtreme, the shipping time is long, and which color of magnet is cheapest changes a lot, so keep an eye on the site, and order early before you run out. You can get them on [Amazon](http://amzn.to/2ChQpvC) as well, but the offers for magnets there seem to appear and disappear a lot. The vast majority of the magnets used are the 5mm spheres. If a set uses the cylinders, I'll call that out specifically. Otherwise, assume that anything using magnets uses the spheres.
|
||||
|
||||
### Paint
|
||||
For the most part, I use [Americana Craft Paint](https://decoart.com/americana/) for my terrain. Here's their [color chart](https://decoart.com/colorchart/americana). There isn't anything super special about my choice here, you can find usable paints with any of the craft lines. Use the color chart I linked to look at other paint lines to get paints that are close. You should not pay more then $2 per paint for these (The prices sometimes change on these links).
|
||||
|
||||
* [Lamp (Ebony) Black](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DAO67-3&Category_Code=DA-2) (worth getting in [large](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DAO67-9&Category_Code=DA-8)), [Snow (Titanium) White](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DAO1-3&Category_Code=DA-2)
|
||||
* [Zinc](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DA304-3&Category_Code=DA-2), [Neutral Grey](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DAO95-3&Category_Code=DA-2), [Slate Grey](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DAO68-3&Category_Code=DA-2)
|
||||
* [Bittersweet Chocolate](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DA195-3&Category_Code=DA-2), [Milk Chocolate](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DA174-3&Category_Code=DA-2), [Raw Umber](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DA130-3&Category_Code=DA-2), [Burnt Umber](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DAO64-3&Category_Code=DA-2), [Raw Sienna](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DAO93-3&Category_Code=DA-2), [Burnt Sienna](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DAO63-3&Category_Code=DA-2), [Honey Brown](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DA163-3&Category_Code=DA-2) for wood and a number of other uses
|
||||
* [Desert Sand](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DAO77-3&Category_Code=DA-2) and [Fawn](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DA242-3&Category_Code=DA-2) for highlights
|
||||
* [Hauser Light Green](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DA131-3&Category_Code=DA-2), [Hauser Medium Green](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DA132-3&Category_Code=DA-2), [Hauser Dark Green](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DA133-3&Category_Code=DA-2), [Light Avocado](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DA106-3&Category_Code=DA-2) for moss/lichen
|
||||
* [Bright Orange](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DA228-3&Category_Code=DA-2) for rust
|
||||
* [Ultra Blue Deep](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DA100-3&Category_Code=DA-2), [True Blue](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DAO36-3&Category_Code=DA-2) and [Ocean Blue](https://decoart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Session_ID=9dfbaac54a360cee1f9f4ea541267a45&Screen=PROD&Store_Code=D&Product_Code=DA270-3&Category_Code=DA-2) for water.
|
||||
* [Gloss varnish](http://amzn.to/2Ew6nHu) for things like water, metal, etc.
|
||||
* [Matte varnish](http://amzn.to/2BjbusS) for everything else
|
||||
* Various metallics from a variety of craft paint lines for metals.
|
||||
* [Liquitex Matte Medium](http://amzn.to/2CiHOZq) for making washes or glazes.
|
||||
* Vallejo Metal Color
|
||||
|
||||
### Paint Brushes
|
||||
You will need paint brushes. For terrain they don't have to be of high wuality, but expect to toss them from time to time. Here's a [big set](http://amzn.to/2CjrPdL) that's wholly sufficient. You will want some wide for dry brushing, and some fine point for detail work. I tend to use Golden Taklon for synthetic brushes. You will also want some [paint sponges](http://amzn.to/2EEMa2A).
|
||||
|
||||
### Water
|
||||
When I want to do water in something like a fountain, I use Woodland Scenics [Water Effects](http://amzn.to/2ERGfor).
|
||||
|
||||
## Tools
|
||||
### 3d Printer (of course)
|
||||
If you can afford a little more in cost, I suggest the [Prusa i3 MK2](http://shop.prusa3d.com/en/3d-printers/59-original-prusa-i3-mk2-kit.html) at $699.99. It gets great reviews, isn't super expensive, and makes really top quality prints.
|
||||
|
||||
If you want something cheaper, GearBest reached out to me to have me print with their [Tronxy X5s](https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_701645.html?lkid=11524128), and I have to say I was pleasantly surprised, it's a really solid printer. You can pick it up for $285.99. Also, a lot of people seem to be really happy with the [Monoprice Maker Select](https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13860) at $299.99.
|
||||
|
||||
### Hobby knife
|
||||
You'll want an xacto knife. I prefer one with [rubber sides](http://amzn.to/2ESwczx). You'll also want a [self healing mat](http://amzn.to/2H58ErW) and [plenty of blades](http://amzn.to/2H3PZwy) (a sharp knife is counterintuitively safer then a dull one). Don't be stupid with these, cut away from yourself. I know, I've had 3 bad cuts in the past few years, one of which that did permanent nerve damage to my left pointer finger. Be careful!
|
||||
|
||||
### Pin Vice
|
||||
I use the pin vice all the time. Basically it's a mini drill that you turn with your hands that has very tiny bits. For anything that I print that uses filament as a joint or a rivet, having a drill that's a little larger then a 1.75mm piece of filament is super useful, but I find a ton of other uses for it in both 3d printing, and for miniatures. This isn't critical equipment, but it's really pretty useful to have.
|
||||
|
||||
Here's a [reasonably cheap one](http://amzn.to/2BjyIPu) and one that has a [ton of bits](http://amzn.to/2BklUbt). A variety of bits is really worth it. In fact, I really did actually order the second one from amazon while writing this. Seriously.
|
||||
|
||||
### Flush Cutters
|
||||
Here's a cheap set from [amazon](http://amzn.to/2BkOkCf). Cheap snips generally are softer, so their blade is more easily destroyed. So long as you **only** use this on plastic, you can go as cheap as you want.
|
||||
|
||||
### Jewelry Mallet
|
||||
From time to time, I need a [Jewelry Mallet](http://amzn.to/2FgFwjV) (or from [Harbor Freight](https://www.harborfreight.com/double-sided-mallet-with-wooden-handle-98285.html)). Generally it's for getting the cylindrical magnets to sit flush.
|
||||
|
||||
### Lighter
|
||||
I use a standard bic lighter. Best way to get rid of stringing if you have any. Also super useful for making rivets out of filament.
|
||||
|
||||
### Spray Paint Booth
|
||||
Because I'm making a ton of tiles, I built a simple spray paint booth. What I did was go get some flat cardboard (from say an amazon box), and a plastic crate (like [this one](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Style-Selections-Bella-30-Gallon-Clear-Tote-with-Standard-Snap-Lid/50149128)). Get rid of the lid, add the cardboard on the bottom, and bam, instant spray booth.
|
||||
|
||||
### Drill Press
|
||||
Printing isn't always clean. In many cases, magnet holes will end up with stringing, gunk or other bits of plastic in them. I use a benchtop drill press with a 15/64" or 6mm drill bit. This is not strictly necessary, it's totally nice to have. You don't need anything nice, you can just the cheap-o model from [Harbor Freight](https://www.harborfreight.com/8-in-5-speed-bench-drill-press-60238.html) or [Amazon](http://amzn.to/2EuS5ad). I find a ton of use for my drill press, unrelated to OpenForge. If you have the space, I recommend one. If not, you can still do this with any drill, it's just easier with a drill press.
|
||||
|
||||
244
hobby/washes.md
Normal file
244
hobby/washes.md
Normal file
@@ -0,0 +1,244 @@
|
||||
Table of Contents
|
||||
=================
|
||||
|
||||
* [Washes](#washes)
|
||||
* [Army Painter Quickshade](#army-painter-quickshade)
|
||||
* [Army Painter Quickshade Washes](#army-painter-quickshade-washes)
|
||||
* [Citadel Shades](#citadel-shades)
|
||||
* [Green Stuff World Washes](#green-stuff-world-washes)
|
||||
* [Oil Washes](#oil-washes)
|
||||
* [Reaper Master Series Washes](#reaper-master-series-washes)
|
||||
* [Tamiya Panel Line Accent Colors](#tamiya-panel-line-accent-colors)
|
||||
* [Vallejo Game Color Washes](#vallejo-game-color-washes)
|
||||
* [Vallejo Model Wash](#vallejo-model-wash)
|
||||
* [Warcolours Shades](#warcolours-shades)
|
||||
* [Other Wash lines](#other-wash-lines)
|
||||
* Other Articles
|
||||
* [Paints](paints.md)
|
||||
* [Metallic Paints](metallic_paints.md)
|
||||
* [Washes/Inks](washes.md)
|
||||
* [Tools](tools.md)
|
||||
* [Techniques](techniques.md)
|
||||
|
||||
# Washes
|
||||
|
||||
## Army Painter Quickshade
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
* Container: 250ml Can
|
||||
* Cost per ml: $0.11/ml ($29.99 per can)
|
||||
* Personal level of experience: Medium
|
||||
* Washes in product line: 3
|
||||
* Purchase: There is no set sold of these, but you can find them individually. For example here is [Dark Tone](https://amzn.to/2MrFF88) for $23.96
|
||||
|
||||
Army Painter Quickshades are a fairly unique product for miniature painting. They are fairly close in formulation to something like a Minwax wood finish. They come in three colors: Soft Tone, Strong Tone and Dark Tone. Dark Tone is a black wash, Strong Tone is a brown wash and Soft Tone is a Sepia Wash (or close to it). These are intended for super fast army painting, and are a pretty heavy hammer to be hitting with. They leave a thick gloss coat on your minis, which can be handy for protection, but honestly doesn't look awesome. That can be mitigated through matte varnishes, but still, it leaves the miniature kind of chunky. This stuff takes about a day to fully dry. If you plan on using it, expect to have the wash be the last step of your paint job. I do not recommend these. Don't confuse these with their line of Army Painter Quickshade Washes, which are quite good.
|
||||
|
||||
References:
|
||||
|
||||
* [Miniwargaming Jay: Miniature Painting 101: Part 40 - Dips](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbnqzB89CzY)
|
||||
* [Sorastro's Zombicide: Black Plague Painting Guide Ep.1 - The Zombies](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMOTmOchKyQ)
|
||||
|
||||
## Army Painter Quickshade Washes
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
* Container: 18ml Dropper
|
||||
* Cost per ml: $0.18/ml ($3.25 per dropper bottle)
|
||||
* Personal level of experience: Medium
|
||||
* Washes in product line: 11
|
||||
* Purchase: [Army Painter Quickshade Washes Set](https://amzn.to/2MryqNM) (11 washes for $27.09)
|
||||
|
||||
This line of washes should not be confused with the Army Painter Quickshade product line (vs these, Army Painter Quickshade Washes, confusing, I know). This line of washes are very very close in both colors and quality to the Citadel Shades line (With probably 7 of the 11 being direct comparisons). There are 11 colors, three of which, Soft Tone, Strong Tone and Dark tone ade designed to match up with the Quickshade of the same name. Thye also have Green Tone, Red Tone, Blue Tone, Purple Tone, Flesh Wash, Mid Brown, Light Tone and Military Shader.
|
||||
|
||||
These are good washes, and frankly great for their price. Oddly my only real complaint is that for washes, my preference reverses and I would prefer to get these in paint pots instead of droppers. If you are on a budget, these are the go to for washes. If you are not, you probably still want to have a set of these.
|
||||
|
||||
## Citadel Shades
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
* Container: 24ml Pot
|
||||
* Cost per ml: $0.33/ml ($7.80 per Pot)
|
||||
* Personal level of experience: High, None (for gloss washes)
|
||||
* Washes in product line: 15, 3 of them gloss
|
||||
* Purchase: [Citadel Shade Paint Set](https://amzn.to/2WKcZv7) (8 shades for $31.32) Warning with this, the pots are smaller, so it's not as good of a deal as it appears. I would suggest just getting these shades one by one
|
||||
|
||||
With as much shade (ha) that I throw at the citadel layer paints, I have to grant that their washes are excellent. People have referred to them in the past as liquid talent, and they are top notch. They do a great job of finding recesses, and they dry to a satin, almost matte finish. You can slop them on, and they will still generally come to a pretty decent result. The first time you use them, they will feel a little like magic. I find myself using at least one of Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade, Reikland Flesh Shade or Seraphim Sepia on nearly every model I paint. These are my go to, with Army Painter Quickshade washes being my second most common tool I reach for when it comes to washes.
|
||||
|
||||
The citadel line has the following colors: Nuln Oil (Black) (also in Gloss), Agrax Earthshade (Brown) (Also in Gloss), Reilkand Fleshshade (Flesh (Also in Gloss), Seraphim Sepia (Sepia), Athonian Camoshade (green/brown), Drakenhof Niteshade (blue), Druchii Violet (Purple), Biel-tan Green (Green), Carroburg Crimson (dark pink), Fugan Orange (Orange/borwn), Casandira Yellow (Yellow/Orange) and Soelia Greenshade (blue-green).
|
||||
|
||||
Given my paint pot hate above, it might seem strange that I prefer this line of washes above others. Well, shades aren't paints, and if you are going to slop on some wash, it's nice to be able to wick off the excess back into the pot. Wash pots also don't clog up like paint pots do. However, what citadel wash orts are famos for is spilling. If you use these, have a tool to keep the pot upright. This can be as simple as adding some poster tack to the bottom of the bottle. Trust me, they are super easy to knock over.
|
||||
|
||||
The gloss washes are a fairly new product. They are supposed to flow better, and work better for washing metals. I have yet to try them, so I can't speak from experience here.
|
||||
|
||||
## Green Stuff World Washes
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
* Container: 17ml Dropper
|
||||
* Cost per ml: $0.18/ml (2.69€ ~ $3.03 per dropper)
|
||||
* Personal level of experience: None
|
||||
* Washes in product line: 8
|
||||
* Purchase: [Set x8 Acrylic Wash Ink Paints](http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/acrylic-inks/781-set-x8-acrylic-wash-ink-paints.html) (8 washes for 21.25€ ~ $23.92)
|
||||
|
||||
Overall I've heard good stuff about these. My impression is that one of the differences between older washes and the newer generation that seem to be substantially more useful is the transition to inks for the pigment. The Green Stuff World Washes use ink.
|
||||
|
||||
Greenstuff world inks have black, red, blue, flesh, purple, green earth (brown) and sepia. This is a pretty standard line up.
|
||||
|
||||
References:
|
||||
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Product Review 32 - Green Stuff World Wash](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iVzt6ZN-LAQ)
|
||||
|
||||
## Oil Washes
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
* Container: Any
|
||||
* Cost per ml: Any
|
||||
* Personl level of experience: Low
|
||||
|
||||
This is more a class of products than any single product. What you do is you get a traditional oil paint, and thin it using white spirits. You can then paint this on, and it will find the crevices far better than any acrylic paint (Oil has very low surface tension, all acrylics are based on water at some level, which has a high surface tension). You can contiue to adjust or even wipe off the oil wash, and can do so even for days if you re-wet it using white spirits. If you do this, be srue to use a glss or satin varnish over any acrylic paints, as this *will* pull up the paint.
|
||||
|
||||
References:
|
||||
|
||||
* [Miniwargaming Jay: Miniature Painting 101 - Part 18: Oil Washes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6F7dhabn78)
|
||||
* [Paepercuts: How To Make Oil Washes For Your Miniatures](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uxfqXql-gg)
|
||||
* [Plasmo: How to Use Washes Oil, Tamiya panel line accent color, Citadel - Great Guide Plastic Models](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXerpuOthXk)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 89 - How to Use Oil Washes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQmhcSRsiPo)
|
||||
* [Wargamers Consortium: Washes: Using Oil Washes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2JurVVWLzY)
|
||||
|
||||
## Reaper Master Series Washes
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
* Container: 15ml Dropper
|
||||
* Cost per ml: $0.22/ml ($3.29 per dropper)
|
||||
* Personal level of experience: High
|
||||
* Washes in product line: 6
|
||||
* Purchase: [Reaper Master Series Triad Washes I](https://amzn.to/2EPYT1k) (3 bottles for $11.25) with Brown, Black and Flesh
|
||||
|
||||
Reaper has a fairly limited line with Flesh, Brown, Black, Sepia, Stone and Steel. That being said, they have the clearly very important ones of Flesh, Brown, Black and Sepia. The Stone and Steel washes are fairly interesting, as there's nothing quite like them in other lines (Stone is a little similar to Vallejo's Grey Wash). Steel wash is sort of a blue-grey and certainly has applications. Reaper's washes get the job done. I find them a step below the citadel washes, but it's only a minor step. They are still plenty useful. The primary probme here is that the wash range is really limited, so going with a set like that from Army painter or Vallejo is going to be a better experience just due to them having a much broader pallet.
|
||||
|
||||
## Tamiya Panel Line Accent Colors
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
* Container: 40ml jar with paint brush in lid
|
||||
* Cost per ml: $0.23/ml (Around $9 per jar)
|
||||
* Personal level of experience: Low
|
||||
* Washes in product line: 4
|
||||
|
||||
These are a special product. They are used specifically for doing panel lineing which is for draing a dark accent around the edges of say a metal panel. They are of more use to people doing sci-fi figures than fantasy. These are frankly magic. You dip the included brush and then poke it in between some panels and it will pull itself along the length of that line. If you plan on doing panel lining, these are a super asset.
|
||||
o
|
||||
|
||||
## Vallejo Game Color Washes
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
* Container: 18ml Dropper
|
||||
* Cost per ml: $0.19/ml ($3.29 per dropper)
|
||||
* Personal level of experience: High
|
||||
* Washes in product line: 8
|
||||
* Purchase: [Vallejo Game Color Wash Set](https://amzn.to/2ERnsuv) (8 washes for $21.95)
|
||||
|
||||
Vallejo washes were the first washes I branched out to from Reaper's. I find they are fairly similar. They are decent, but not as good as citadel or army painter. As time goes on, I have become more frusterated with them, as I find the pigment seperating from the medium. All this requires to fix is a good shake, but I don't have that issue with the citadel washes. The line is fairly standard with one oddity: Grey.
|
||||
|
||||
The Vallejo range is Sepia, Black, Grey, Umber, Flesh, Green, Red and Blue.
|
||||
|
||||
## Vallejo Model Wash
|
||||
|
||||
#
|
||||
|
||||
* Container: 35ml Dropper
|
||||
* Cost per ml: $0.22/ml ($7.99 per dropper)
|
||||
* Personal level of experience: Medium
|
||||
* Washes in product line: 18
|
||||
* Purchase: [Vallejo Dark Grey Model Wash](https://amzn.to/2WLdqoQ) ($7.99)
|
||||
|
||||
This wash is designed for models like vehicles. The range is huge and has a fair number of colors that no other wash range has, including white. The color range seems particularly focused around weathering. I have only personally used one of these, Dark Grey on recommendation from Vince Ventrualla. The dark grey model wash is super useful, in that it can be used more as a glaze to shade down an area. Yes, you can use it as a wash, but for panel lining or glazing, this is a fantastic product. At some point I will test some of the other washes in the line, but for miniature painting I can at least strongly recommend Vallejo Model Wash Dark Grey as a useful tool.
|
||||
|
||||
References:
|
||||
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 56 - Black Lining](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kl5GnGCw6Co)
|
||||
|
||||
## Warcolours Shades
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
* Container: 15ml Dropper
|
||||
* Cost per ml: $0.19/ml (2.50€ ~ $2.81 per dropper)
|
||||
* Personal level of experience: Low
|
||||
* Washes in product line: 7
|
||||
* Purchase: [Warclours Shade Set](https://www.warcolours.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=60&product_id=150) (7 shades for 17.45€ ~ $19.62)
|
||||
|
||||
These are very matte, but also fairly thick shades. They might work like other shades if thinned, but in their out of the bottle consistency, these can't be used like traditional shades. I think these are probably better off used as a glaze than like a wash. As I get more experience with them, I'll circle back and reevalate them.
|
||||
|
||||
|
||||
## Other Wash lines
|
||||
|
||||
There are plenty of other lines of washes. I'll keep a list here as I find them, and expand on them when I have a chance to try them out.
|
||||
|
||||
<!--
|
||||
# To Be Added
|
||||
|
||||
* Inks
|
||||
|
||||
References:
|
||||
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 165 - Miniature Brand Ink & Shade Guide](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x01-3pTktas)
|
||||
|
||||
## Warcolours Inks
|
||||
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Product Review 24 - Warcolours Ink Set](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fXtwo-ZA7fQ)
|
||||
|
||||
## Scale 75 Inktensity
|
||||
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Product Review 03 - Scale 75 Inktensity](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RAntjX9-Ke8)
|
||||
|
||||
## Badger Minitare Ghost Tints
|
||||
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 32 - Ghost Tints & Candy Coats](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bBhufU9WHjE)
|
||||
|
||||
* Glazes
|
||||
|
||||
## Warcolours Glazes
|
||||
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Product Review 27 - Warcolours Glazes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9VzeS7_vfE)
|
||||
|
||||
* Additives
|
||||
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 135 - Guide to Paint Additives](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FuSFCiLvs1w)
|
||||
|
||||
* Shading
|
||||
|
||||
* [Dr Faust's Painting Clinic: The Basics: Inks & Washes for Miniatures](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vuTCEzyZ50o)
|
||||
* [Miniac: Episode 05: Shading](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EdbWckTKDmk)
|
||||
* [Miniwargaming Jay: Miniature Painting 101 - Part 10 - Washes and Shades](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ke2UMbMPN9w)
|
||||
* [Miniwargaming Jay: Miniature Painting 101: Part 17 - Shading](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i7lBNjOVjLU)
|
||||
|
||||
* Glazing
|
||||
|
||||
* [Miniac: How to Glaze](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ePwy9qED28)
|
||||
* [Miniwargmaing Jay: Miniature Painting 101 - Part 12 - Glazes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzaxN4J69s0)
|
||||
* [Miniwargaming Jay: Miniature Painting 101: Part 134 - Glazing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfJlGopB2Sg)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 02 - Undershading & Glazes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ZFXSE9UHUM)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 10 - Technique Tips - Washes, Glazes & Drybrush](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaARYpmCyC4)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 31 - Blending - Glazes, Two Brush, Feathering & Loaded Brush](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70A3_bHGMGc)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 122 - How to Glaze](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N88NtHNmz1Q)
|
||||
|
||||
* Zenithal Priming + Glazing
|
||||
|
||||
* [Ghool's Painting Tips: Speed Painting - Zenithal Prime and Glazing](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvJjD6Hm1Es)
|
||||
* [Miniac: Speedpaint Minis Without Losing Quality!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGOmSKO_KaU)
|
||||
* [Sorastro's Blood Rage Painting Guide Ep.1: The Frost Giant](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtHbIfyQHBU)
|
||||
* [Tabletop Minons: Understanding Underpainting](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wxc9WX2INp4)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 07 - Zenithal Highlighting & Ghosts](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1nDvWs4dsfc)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 11 - Zenithal Highlighting Next Steps](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCafLRStALA)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 74 - Speed Painting with Washes, Shades & Inks](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1YdY7GlwKQc)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 75 - Zenithal Highlighting and Glazes](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-dQU-dSNa8)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 104 - Zenithal Speed Painting w True Metals](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByX2jIEmXJM)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 105 - Zenithal Speed Painting Gold True Metals](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agRmMwuQI5A)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 123 - Warm Zenithal Highlighting](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFDHpVJiNC0)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 136 - Guide to Value Sketching](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0CFC2soR18)
|
||||
* [Vince Venturella: Hobby Cheating 175 - Understanding Unusual Undershading & Zenithal Highlighting](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Doc2GdL2Lv4)
|
||||
-->
|
||||
Reference in New Issue
Block a user